Most people come to us for shutters after a window has been put through, or after their insurer has set conditions and they need something installed promptly. There is always a sense of urgency, and understandably so. However, it is at this point people often select the wrong shutter. They purchase one which is too light for the opening, or electric when manual would have been suitable, or solid when the council was always going to insist on perforated.
This page covers the major decisions you will have to make before you get quotes. These guides provide more information.
What you’re actually choosing between
A commercial roller shutter contains interlocking laths that form a curtain and roll up into a box above the opening, guided by side rails. The things that matter are the type of lath, the operation and whether it is insulated.
Solid steel laths provide maximum security and total privacy. As such, they are used most often in residential construction. However, many high streets and planning officers prefer the use of perforated and/or punched laths, which allow light to penetrate and provide visibility into the shop at night. Aluminum is lighter weight and will not rust, however, it is typically a less secure choice where forced entry is the greater concern.
Manual shutters are cheaper and have less that can go wrong. Wide or heavy shutters require someone to open and close them twice a day, and that gets tedious really quick. From an ease of use and convenience standpoint, large or frequently used shutters should be motorised. A motor and controls add expense, but also convenience and safety. You’ll also want to make sure you and someone else know how to use the manual override.
Insulated shutters have a foam-filled lath, and therefore, can be classed as “wall” as far as fire regulations are concerned, on industrial units. On a shopfront, with glazing behind it, the insulation rarely justifies the cost.
Perforated vs Solid Shop Shutters
Roller Shutter Costs in the UK
What shutters cost
The price mainly depends on the size of the aperture, and each figure should be considered a starting point until an actual measurement is taken. A rough estimate of UK trade prices puts a manual shopfront or small unit shutter at £1,200 to £3,000 fitted, an insulated, electric industrial shutter at £2,500 to £6,000, and a heavy duty loading bay shutter at £6,000 to £12,000.
Quotes are usually pushed up by things that happen before or after the shutter rather than the curtaion itself. An example would be “stuff” that doesn’t fit, power supply that’s too far away, a box that must be placed outside because there is not enough room behind the lintel, or a fire barrier.
Security ratings
If security is the focus, you should ask whether the shutter has been tested. The LPS 1175 rating is most recognised by UK insurers and specifiers. The current issue uses a letter and number. The letter represents the kind of tools used to attack the shutter, and the number represents the products security level, or how long the product was able to withstand the test. The SR1 to SR8 ratings still may be used to refer to older products.
An untested shutter could very well be a weak shutter. Unless you’ve personally tested the shutter yourself, all you have is the manufacturer’s word. If the insurance company has requested a specific rating, be sure that it is included in the quote.
Keeping it working
Electric shutters are powered doors and the standards that apply to them (BS EN 13241 for the product and BS EN 12453 for safety in use) assume they will be maintained. Five years without maintenance means the shutter is more likely to malfunction and shut on someone in a hurry to work in the morning. It is also more likely to cause a malfunction that could injure someone.